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I am now on the Island of Gotland. It is just off the east coast of Sweden. The city that my relatives live in is called Visby, which was origionally built during the 12th century. It was a very rich trading port, and was part of the Hanseatic union. Unfortunately, it seems that the town was too rich, for when Denmark took over Sweden, the king wanted all the wealth from Visby. He attacked the town, and in 1361 was let into the gates of the town via betrayal by a "virgin" who was supposed to be in love with him. Or so the story goes. However it actually happened, King Valdemar of Denmark took all of the wealth from Visby, and the town never recoverred.
Now the old town is very well preserved, especially the old wall which was built between 1100 and 1361. Since it was so rich, there are 17 churches that were built during the medevil period. All but one are in ruins due to fires and weather. I also unserstand that throught he ages people would take stones from the burnt out churches to build new houses and buildings. The streets are narrow and cobblestoned. The houses vary from large manors to small huts. Some of them are even built up against the defensive wall so that the back wall of the house is actually the city wall. All told, this is a wonderful little city, with a long history. Speaking of history...
Every year during this week, they hold a medevil festival. People from all over the world come here to take part in it. It is much like a renaissance faire, except that it actually takes place in a city built in the middle ages!! There don't seem to be any encampments set up in the city proper, but just a few miles down the road the SCA has their own little tent village. They allow the public in for only a short time each day, after which everyone inside the camp is required to wear period garb. Or at least what passes for period within the SCA. I find it hard to believe that people int the middle ages wore Nikes, as I saw many of the villagers wearing. And it appears that here, too burlap can make anything period.
Inside the old town there are many booths selling various wares, including Viking jewelry, special beer made here on Gotland (not too bad, in my opinion) andother items sale that are the same or similar to what one might find at a Renfaire back home. However, there does seem to be an abundance of merchants selling amber. Perhaps I will spend some of my limited funds on a necklace or something.
Yesterday I went to a concert in one of the old church ruins. There two men played on period instruments, some of which I have seen before, such as the hurdy-gurdy (sp?), and others I have not seen, such as a type of bagpipe that used a belows to fill it instead of a mouthpiece. Fern, any idea what it was?
After that I had planned on taking a guided tour of the city wall, but it turned out to be only in Swedish. So, I set off on my own and walked around a bit. Now, this being a festival, it wasn't long before I came across someone who offerred me a beer. Not wanting to be rude, I accepted. I spent a few hours with him and some guys from the festival. Most of the time we were comparing the differences between living in Sweden to America, and disscussing the virtues of dear ol' President Clinton. it seems that here in Scandinavia America is thought of as the best country in the world to live in. Of course, they are basing their opinions of America mostly on what they see in movies and television. Oh, did I mention that most of their TV shows come direct from hollywood? They just have swedish subtitles. Needless to say, the view of America that is seen here is a little skewed. But at least it means that almost everyone here speaks English!
I managed to find my way back to my relative's house, and then fell into bed like a brick. Today, after sleeping in a bit late, I went to the harbor and saw a viking ship, docked right next to a peasant boat from the 15th century, and next to that was a Hanseatic ship. Many pictures later, I went to the SCA tent village I mentioned earlier, and am now back home waiting for dinner.
I am thankful that I have such good relatives here. They have been showing me around the city, and other places on the Island (more on that in another letter). I hope that I can return the favor one of these years.
Yours from the 14th century,
Scott
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